Old Dhaka

The last few weeks have been very busy. I wrapped up my internship at BRAC and I was very sad to go. Over the last few months I have truly come to enjoy my time with BRAC. I have met some amazing people and shared so many great experiences. Near the end of the internship we were able to meet and speak with Sir. Fazle Hasan Abed, the founder and chairman of BRAC. 

Interns with the chairman

It was great to hear about the evolution of BRAC from a small, temporary development program into the world's largest NGO from the man who started it all. Sir. Fazle is truly an inspiration. 

By the time I finished my internship most of the other interns were already gone. My boss and co-workers got me a few items from BRAC Handmade Recycled Paper Products as a parting gift. I was sad to go, but very happy for the time I spent at BRAC. I was especially sad to leave my boss, Mehedi bhai. Over the course of my stay he developed from a boss, to a mentor, to a friend and I am eternally grateful for his advice and guidance.

My job ended with the start of a national holiday for Eid. From the 15th-22nd, most business are closed. Many families travel out of Dhaka to their home towns across Bangladesh. This sudden exodus left the city almost empty. I decided it would be a perfect time to get out and see a few things I have neglected to get to during my stay so far. 

Luckily, my friend from work, Zayn, was staying in town and offered to be my guide through Old Dhaka. He too was excited to visit a few places he hasn't been to in years. We agreed to meet up in Dhanmondi to start our adventure. A trip from Banani to Dhanmondi, which would normally take about 45 mins, took me around 15 minutes thanks to the reduced traffic from Eid. I meet with Zayn and we headed out to the old city center of Dhaka. 

We arrived in Puran Dhaka (Old Dhaka) to a scene of chaos. Throngs of Bangladeshis crowded the streets vying for position. With the rest of the city pretty much shut down I was surprised to see such a big crowd. Zayn informed me that we were near the offices where bus and boat tickets could be purchased to leave Dhaka. After negotiating our way through the streets we came upon our first stop for the day, Ahsan Manjil also known as the Pink Palace. Ahsan Manjil was constructed from 1859-1872 and was the official seat of the Dhaka Nawab Family (the political power at the time). While walking up to the gate it became apparent that there was some sort of altercation going on between a small crown of people and the security for the Palace. Apparently the grounds were closed for Eid, but that wasn't going to stop us from getting in. After some brief under the table negotiations, Zayn and I were let in (200 taka apparently gets you VIP access to historical sites).

On the steps at the Pink Palace

It turned our for the better that the grounds were closed because we were able to take pictures and look around without crowds of people. Since we bribed our way in we were only given a few minutes to explore and were not able to visit the museum located inside of the Palace. 

The beautiful grounds of the Pink Palace

The next stop on our adventure was to the Armenian Church in Armanitola. Built in 1781, the church stands as a symbol of a significant Armenian community in Dhaka in the 17th and 18th century. 

The grounds and church itself were quite lovely. If it weren't for the map we printed before we left, this gem would have remained hidden within the tightly packed streets and alleys of Old Dhaka. 

On our way to the next historical site I received a call from a man I had met earlier in the week. He stopped to speak with me about what I was doing here in Bangladesh. After a brief conversation we exchanged contact info and I really never expected to hear from him again. He was calling to see if I would like to go to the Bangladesh Television station to speak with him. Unsure what to do, Zayn and I agreed to meet him later in the week (I'll get to this later in another post). 

The next stop was Lalbagh Fort. Built in 1678 by the son of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, this fort was the scene of a bloody battle during the first war of Independence from the British in 1857. Once again the grounds were closed, but the security guard mentioned that he would turn a blind eye towards our attempts to gain access. He pretty much suggested we find a wall to climb over and that he would let us out later. After employing several local boys to show us the best spots in to the fort, we were able to get a good look at the place from the Mosque on the grounds. 

The last stop on our journey was to the oldest Hindu temple in Bangladesh. The Dhakashwari (Goddess of Dhaka) Temple was constructed in the 12th century and is still used today for worship. 

While we were at the temple we got to see an artist sculpting statues for upcoming religious celebrations. The statues are decorated and set in boats with candles and offerings to be sent down the river. 

Even though we were not able to see a few of the places we had in mind, it was a wonderful day. Exusted and hungry, we set off for Dhanmondi for Iftar with Zayn and his family. We had a great meal and conversation. I was happy to learn that Zayn's father and two uncles went to school in Indiana at Purdue and Franklin College. It just goes to show you what a small world it really is. 

I hope to write a few more posts this week on some of the things I missed during my stay in Dhaka. I am getting excited for my trip to Nepal and can't wait to share my experiences. Until next time, good night my friends.